Spring Summer 2018
One of the largest and most complex mechanical clock and astronomical calendar in the world sits on the top of the bell tower of the Cathedral of Messina, Fausto Puglisi’s hometown. Built in 1933 during the renovation of the church destroyed by the earthquake, it is a symbol of forgotten mastery crafts. At noon, a complex gearing allows the gilded bronze statues to move while the sound of Schubert “Ave Maria” echoes across the city. Its perfect mechanisms in synchronic movement reveal Catholic and Pagan scenes: the lives of the Saints and Graeco-Roman deities, astrological and liturgical calendars and the depictions of Dina e Clarenza, the local heroines of the revolt against the Spanish. All the most important weddings and religious festivities in Messina are celebrated inside this Cathedral, with a profound sense of a traditional and unchanging elegance, finding there a natural stage.
The Fausto Puglisi Spring-Summer 2018 Collection marks a new direction for the designer, symbolizing a real return to the essentials. The womenswear intended as a social representation, the elegance of this fierce land, the craftsmanship and attention to details are the narrative heart of the whole project: a journey into tradition with a strong sense of the contemporary.
"I decided to work without colors" – says Fausto Puglisi – "leaving out one of my most recognizable traits, because I wanted to work on the pure forms and decorations, subtracting the chromatic effect. I went back to my homeland for inspiration and tried to capture its most elegant, fragile and emotional traits and - for the first time in my life - the most romantic. Unchanged are the references to the co-existence between sacred and profane, eroticism and women’s innate strength: this time everything goes through family memories and a sense of new, liberating inner peace - only recently conquered - and I think the world really needs to find it again."
The story of the collection runs through black and white macramé and Chantilly lace, impalpable or crispy linen. Incredibly, this sense of lightness is achieved through complex carvings on leather, edging overlays of broderie anglaise, inlays and hand embroidery. The shapes are deliberately simplified and elegant. A reminiscence of the beginning of the 20th century but also the fluidity of holiday clothing from the 1920s and 30s: petticoats, furreau and dresses are mixed with oversized t-shirts and sweatshirts, playing contrast.